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Farewell and welcome

Well how Philip feared - unfortunately problems later in the admission occurred. After passing through passport control, baggage scanning again emerged problems, because customs officer insisted that the souvenirs you can not take on board the aircraft. I explained to her that I will not make a wooden bowl of a terrorist attack, but she was adamant, and gave two options: either to leave or pay 50E souvenirs. The first of these was not an option, the other the more. Unfortunately I did not phone each other or No for Filip Nigerian mobile, so I could not call him to come and take souvenirs. Left only to pay. Celniczce I said that I brought in their own country all the money and I have been 5E. Marudziła, marudziła, but took on luck. Good bye to me Nigeria tickled .... I went further, to the gate, and here I see another check luggage. My heart sank and I thought now that, as one will once again wanted me to bribe him to think this is a wooden bowl przywalę. My patience has come to an end. And if I did, I would probably be deported straight away I was prepared for, so and so I flew back home:) But luckily the last inspection has already been checked with Lufthansa and only if there is no more than 100ml of liquids and sharp objects.
Poland welcomed me to the half-melted snow, gray and sad people at the airport. But somehow I'ma hold it - I hope that my energy Harvest by the 2.5 months to help me lighten and warm up a bit around:) Thanks again for cheering and faithful reading of our adventures. Will certainly be next!

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At the airport - that is, Out of Africa

We leave home at 19:20. Like the airport takes about half an hour, but in Lagos traffic jams can be such that the same may take a 2.5 hour tour. In any event, the road through town is quite passable. The air can no longer feel the heavy atmosphere of return. Out of Africa. I'm still staying, but I also know that a stage has ended. For the first time since his departure, was the last Monday in the morning I felt like this on Monday - oh I do not like Mondays, I do not like .... Gone are our Fridays and Saturdays, unfortunately ....
At the airport, but there is no queue for check-in, but we must first open your backpack before customs. As it turns out not to our elaborately packaged bag no mercy. Squeeze their paws in and brutally crash everything with him. Of course, any memorial (and particularly one large mask Dogon country) leave aside and irritated tone, demanding a certificate from the museum that are not antiques. It does not help our translations, we're tourists, that those monuments are purchased in other countries (displaying a visa in the passport). These are a few mementos of E, I explain. Do I look like someone who pays thousands of dollars for antiques? Thieves (because otherwise they can not be named) at the border after lengthy discussions allow us to pack, but still want to take us to some boss. Chris at this point loses patience and gives one of them 2000 N - 10E. Publican completely without any embarrassment the money, not paying attention to all the people around you. At the same time our antiques to change into ordinary souvenirs that can be freely exported from Nigeria. In the meantime I am going to check-in and I want to validate your ticket immediately and recover money for him. It's all me terribly sick. That shit at the end. For me, the first contact with the airport in Lagos (the previous times I flew to Abuja), and despite warnings, such thing did not expect. Fortunately, the gentlemen officially forces tribute at the airport, under the aegis of Nigerian customs, after receiving the money completely lost interest in us. Backpack is no longer so well gets packed on weight. The rest goes smoothly. We're going to wait along the bars, because the departure of a lot of time. Emotions some of us last. Circle 22 is goodbye. Unfortunately, Al is not with each phone, so I do not know if I had any problem further. In total there are pop or souvenirs. I hope to write something today about your flight ..... I probably still waiting for a lonely road north to Kano. How about this idea, it's up to me, shivers go. Again, one thousand psychic truck drivers, hundreds of miles of potholes, heat, and swinging Montek. Just go there only as a whole to deliver. In any case, what I have posted and let you know how it goes with the sale. Thanks again for the great comments, words of encouragement and your time .....

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February 24 - End of travel

And then came the last day of our trip to West Africa. With the planned 10 thousand. miles grew almost 13 000th Today, packaging, some splashing in the pool with friends and of course the last dinner. This time, fresh fish pepper soup. The waiter aquarium fishes out bulky sum, from which the chef makes a delicious, extremely sharp soup. When eating a man crying, pouring from his nose, sweat pours from the entire body, but despite this - continue to be so tasty this dish. But you have to have an iron stomach to withstand such an amount of cayenne pepper. Circle of 19 we go to the airport.
expedition ended, but the blog is not. Philip is still in Nigeria for a while, so how can something interesting will happen - will be posted.
In any event, we thank all our loyal readers for joining us on this expedition. We hope that maybe we could convince more dedicated that traveling is one of the best things in life that dreams do come true and that nothing is impossible! After returning Philip
urządzimy slideshow and stories, so in advance are welcome!
See you there!

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February 23 - Sungbo Eredo, a Nigerian tourist attractions




Today we have a very ambitious plan - to find a little-known monument in the world Nigeria: Sungbo Eredo, which according to our guide: the biggest building in Africa, made with human hands, with a length of about 160 km and a height of up to 7 floors. Equipped with such information and location of the 'something', we go to town Ijebu-Ode, where we supposed to find Sungbo Eredo. We asked a few people at a time, unfortunately, no one had heard of something like that. I explain that it will be a high wall, the 160km long, so he should know about such things. After another failed attempt, we manage to find a group at one of the shops where they know what we mean and a grandparent is proposed that will go with us and show us the path. We're going so the three of them and actually get to the place that is marked with the words Sungbo Eredo under the brand name and the ministry of tourism. Local explain to us that it is implicitly tomb of Queen of Sheba, to which Muslim pilgrims every year and pulled thousands of Christian giving tribute to her. It turns out that women do not have access there, and only Phil can enter the holy places. I am waiting at the car, cheering granddaughter of one of the local grandparents. After 10 min. Philip goes back to the disgusted face. There is no trace of any wall - low or high, only a few bars surrounded by a wire. Some routes have to climb barefoot in the jungle, but apparently doing well. We ask those present men as it is with this wall. Nobody knows anything, nobody saw nothing. As You can lose the 160km wall? We go back to town and ask again. Guided us in a certain place 30km away, which we find without difficulty, but on the spot instead of 'wall' that is the wall we see a 'war monument', the war memorial. But fortunately there a worker of some sort associate the name of the hotel Sungbo Eredo and explains to us that this is not a wall (actually the guide was not used that name, only the 'tall building 7 floors'), a deep ditch, which was built 1000 years this is likely for defensive purposes then the kingdom. Explains to us exactly where to find it. We go further and actually find 30km rusty plate with the name Sungbo Eredo. We go after mouldered board in the jungle. There, the path ends, because overgrown with various zielskami. We have no machetes, so hands breaks through the bush. After a few meters, we see a ditch, but so completely overgrown, that actually we did not know that this is the work of thousands of people 1,000 years ago, in my life zwrócilibyśmy attention. Even the pictures do not do, because there is so .... And that's how they look Sights in such nieturystycznym country like Nigeria. In Mali also sanctified by stressing its impressive length of 160km and depth, they did next to a reconstruction of old buildings and clearing a lot of money for the opportunity to enjoy this, and here - is not enough that hardly anyone local knows that such a thing exists, and how after great hardships will find, it turns out that it was worth the 300km drive to watch it ...
When you arrive home, check your mileage: Our entire trip from departure from home was 20 482 km! Still gearing up extra 1200km to drive car buyer, but it is like outside the counter 'tourist'. Well, everything beautiful has an end ....

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21 and February 22 - Race Against Time and Lagos

Time 5:30 am - wake up. To make it a birthday party we have to leave Christopher Robin as soon as possible. The route is 800km, and the roads here vary - parędziesiąt km excellent, brand new asphalt, and then the same hole. We set out before sunrise. Select a different route than the one that we went to Abuja, he was quite a long section of a very bad road. We hope that you will now have better. Originally going to be a super, because the roads empty (Saturday morning) and where a good asphalt. Unfortunately, over time the road is filled with more psychopathic truck drivers, and the asphalt begins to be displaced by a huge hole. Around the world, is the principle that a big maybe more, but here it comes to the limit. Trucks are beginning to overtake the hill, dragging the 20km per hour, or downhill, with limited visibility, driving for a change, 100km per hour. Of course, everything takes place in our lane and what we need to move rapidly downhill side of the road, which is often steep or very leaky. Such a horse may finish even a rally driver! At some point, after driving 7h nowiusieńką we enter the two-lane highway. He goes to great. But so what, since from time to time in one of two lanes in our direction is going against the current car, I do not want him to go properly to the exit and goes quickly in our belt. Suddenly, all of a sudden the road ends. It is a big laterite and brick fence. As it turns out, the work is finished here, but I used to start Insallah! So we turn back and go for a Nigerian, who shows us the path. Unfortunately, this has already returned to African standards. Single carriageway, which leads through the town and a village, horribly riddled and even more crowded. Along the way, two more small caps, and 12h after we get to Lagos. Quick shower, take a taxi and to the party. Biba is called a Small World, and different countries have their positions, which serve national specialties as well as alcohol. CrossFit treats its guests with birthday cake and all the fun end up with a neighbor Christopher Robin - Andrew, also of Polish, in the morning.
on Sunday as we come to each other after Saturday's ballets by going to the beach. Krysia ordered grilled fish and chips at the leading lady previously proven eatery, "blah blah." In good company finish up that nice day at home.

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Feb. 19 - With Yankari to Kano



morning still decide to use the hot springs and luxury of spending two hours swimming in the green-blue warm water. So energized pack up and head out again. Our goal is to Kano - a town in the north, already dominated by Islam. We will stay there with friends Philip and p.Mietka p.Hani who live in Nigeria for 20 years. According to the maps we have two routes to choose from: a longer, but a better way, and much shorter, but most of the secondary and tertiary roads. Since Montek rear suspension has been specifically exploited, Rather, we do not want to risk driving because of large potholes. Bauchi got to ask a policeman for directions and it turns out that the shorter route is reportedly very good and we really recommend this very way. Well, risk-physicist. So we go out instructions policeman. And this is a very good choice, because actually on the road is brand-new asphalt. However, the maps, as we have already repeatedly seen, should not be too trusting. Here, everything is changing so fast that even the latest edition is no longer enough to date. 17 o'clock we reached the end, where Mr Mietek meets us in the center of town to lead us through the city home. Kano is of low buildings, apart from a handful of tall buildings in the center. It extends many miles in each direction. Kano was the first settlement to the caravan leaving from the Sahara. The city has more than 5 million inhabitants, but exactly how much - that no one knows. Well, maybe except Allah! Shariatu law prevails here, and from time to time, the religious police is doing a share: the end of the sale of alcohol. We learned also that the same police recently smashed a truck carrying beer to Kano. The situation, however, always returns to normal and alcohol is generally available in parts Christian. Kano is an important point for the Arab world, Qaddafi visited them recently, which launches here for Muslim schools and hospitals to attract more people to Islam. At home waiting for us a delicious dinner and spend the whole evening talking to many of Nigeria, Poland and the world. For dinner, eat the local fish of a specific famous name: the elephant water. Really delicious - highly recommend, you must try! For tomorrow we
ambitious plan to visit Kano, and Abuja, at least until you reach, and the way we would like to visit Kaduna.

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February 18 - Safari and hot springs







In the morning we awake baboons, which are fitted together with our garbage. Threw big chunks of sugar cane yesterday, that enticed strolling around here everywhere baboons. We were about to trash scattered around the car, and again and again baboony snap on Montka, looking at the middle, what a treasure we have there. Well, in these conditions is no longer possible to continue to sleep. Paraskewia so the reception to go on a safari. It is also changed. I once was an old dilapidated truck for 100N (1E = 200N) per person, minimum of 1500N but if there were no takers. Now he has chartered for only Toyota landcruisery 7000N. Fortunately we have a 4x4, so we only need a guide. In this case, 300N per person, so quite reasonably. We go on safari. We see, of course, baboons and monkeys, red (red monkey, do not know if they are so called in Polish), the entire mass guźców (in the camp taplają the leaking water from fire hydrants), bush buck antelope and roan antelope. We see a group of elephants, but unfortunately it has come into the forest, So we see very little. After hipopotamach also gone. After two hours back. We go for breakfast. We order an omelet with french fries (it's better than that of white bread toasted sweet pseudo, not utostowany, because there is no electricity). During our breakfast as you do, we pay for a room for tonight. Indeed, the changes are great. Rooms for $ 12 thousand. N are much smaller and uglier than those for $ 14 thousand. We choose to pay more. Treat yourself to some luxury for only 70E! After breakfast we go to spring. The water is 31 degrees and fantastic turquoise color. Ala had seen many pictures of Yankari, but still doing it big impression, especially since it is not no swimming pool, a natural spring, which turns into a river, with sandy-stony bottom. We forgot to add that We gathered garbage demolished by the baboons, and we wanted to throw them away, unfortunately, as the baboons saw that Al comes out of the car with a commercial of her obskoczyły and looked so threatening that she had to throw away the bag, which they immediately rushed. In the water it all the time looking at the huge group of baboons walking past. Some are quite aggressive. One of the females in heat have, unless takes but rival and begins to behave aggressively and closer to us. We need to throw stones at her. Moments later, a huge male (such baboons may be a meter as they stand on two legs) goes in the direction of our clothes. Al is on the shore and watches. I water it with stones. Shedding beside him, and he's just as if nothing ever goes on in our direction and takes a plastic bag. Here, boys are called baboons area (such as youth gangs in Lagos.) Indeed, something in it. We get out of the water, you need to prepare for an afternoon safari.
this time going with us less eloquent guide but all in all well - this morning was wordcap sometimes, silence is so common good. Coming very bumpy, NOT asphalt road, the guide saw an elephant behind the bushes. We go further, because there is a bend of the river without any trees and we get to the point where we can see perfectly the whole group of elephants - a total of about 40 View amazing. For a long time watching the elephants, who nobly passed along the river, and then we go. We see a few more lovely birds (hard to do, unfortunately, photo), and antelope. Pleased to return to the resort. Very successful safari.
spend a busy evening, writing outstanding reports from all days, you may not say that peter:) Tomorrow is waiting for us, Kano. We have yet to change the house, because our climate does not work (well, magical Nigerian electrician bind - probably burned in the compressor). Furniture are fantastic and so tastefully chosen as to be hard to believe that he could do a black man. Despite all our sympathy to them must be made clear that they do not have an ounce of taste or the idea of \u200b\u200bfinishing the construction work. Our cottage, despite the fact that just over half a year already dirty, and the tiles and the shower are so finished, though a small child entertained with plasticine and zapychało hole. Water from the shower flies everywhere, but not from the bowl. It could be a long time to exchange the wonders of Nigerian art. After a short conversation at the reception, where I share my observations and insights, of course, it turns out that the houses are furnishing by the German company. You do not even need to ask who was doing finishing work. It shows at a glance ......
And, another important issue. Our journey comes to an end. Al bought a return ticket to Polish on February 24 and 25 days ago will be in the country. Our Common trip ends. I'll stay for a while in Nigeria to sell Montka. If you will find something interesting has happened, then throw on the blog.

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February 17 - Yankari greets




After a morning meeting in the office of Mohammed with him and his brother and to buy substantial amounts of souvenirs, we head north - to the Yankari National Park. Wild is so similar to ghańskim Mole National Park, but an additional attraction is the hot springs. The route to the park passes through the picturesque surroundings, climb higher. Montek continue writing the great, but increasingly worried that the very end of something is not broke. It is already very tired of the tour. At the end of our trip odometer, we have over 18 000 km. For a late lunch stop in Jos. Phil wants me to eat horrible necessarily tried in a local counterfeit, Mc Donald's - Mr. Bigg's. Food is actually a series of 'survival' but even for the same photo it was worth the stop. Mc Shit is like a restaurant category, "S" at Mister Biggsie! From Abuja to Josu not meet a single police patrol. From Josu begin inspections, but the police is here so kind, that until we do not believe your eyes - no country had not met with such a sympathetic police! In the previous countries were correct, sometimes more or less polite, but they are here simply to apply the wound! Incredible. The more that we expect of known: What do you bring for us? And here we wave, salute, smiling from ear to ear and just show him not to stop and go on. Apparently, the border has already 'wyrobiliśmy' your standard vicious patrols and so far we have peace. After lunch at Josie rush to Bauchi, which is 110km from Yankari. It starts slowly dimmed. Route between Jose and Bauchi (112km) overcome in time. Then, according to Philip's last memories of 2006 is to begin section with holes in the asphalt. We ride, we ride, good road all the time. At the moment begins the hole, but for the moment is the exit of the park. Recently the road was full of holes, and then passed in the laterite. But in 2008, reportedly has been carried out and the road repair center in the park. Indeed, the road to the entrance gate to the park is made of asphalt nowiuśkiego. Total darkness had fallen. We pay for admission to the Park. We drove through the gate i. ..... Here too the asphalt! This is a total desecration! How can a national park where wild animals live in the asphalt road to build a true !!??? After a big, loud machine drives away the animals! We are really angry that something like this has been done here. Nigerian goes for us, which is the first time in Yankari and I was very afraid that the animals will attack his car. How to hear that Philip was here now 3 times it just asks if he could go for us. Sure, why not. Oh, and buy tickets at the time we were shown a table with the prices of rooms in the park. In 2006 a house in the park cost approximately 10E and 60E now reportedly the cheapest free! Well, it starts to cool. While driving we decided that if and so it is already late and dark, now spend the night in the car and rent a cottage for tomorrow. The budget must hold on, we will not be rampant here. We arrive at the resort. Despite the darkness around, eyes wide open Filip: everything has changed. New buildings, new roads, the center has grown strongly. And of course the price ... We go to the front desk, trying to negotiate a discount. There is no such possibility. Madame from reception, even though he had loved us (meaning, of course, - Phillip), no such power. Never mind, we will sleep in the car. At such a statement madame mumbles something about the fees for camping, but disposed of it, and she does not insist too much. We go to the bar for something to drink. There he sits down to us a local, asking for details of our stay here, and after a long monologue about Philip asphalt in the park and room rates asks whether, in this case, since we do not take the room, paid for camping. We in the fact that sleeping in the car in the parking lot, it's not camping, because it requires special conditions for any, provided by the resort, such as toilet and shower, and we just want to sleep in the parking lot. The guy is pretty stubborn. Nothing attainment disappears, and, after returning from a supervisor, who is at the beginning of evil, heard an earlier version of our interlocutors, but after a while the conversation concludes that without a problem, we can sleep in our car at no extra charge. Nothing like a charm:) Philip in this case ....
After sitting at the bar we go to the car, przeparkowujemy him be laid in the middle of lumber so as to be able to distribute the seats and put to sleep. This will be our second night in Montku. The first was spent in Spain, arrested in the night by a snowstorm ....

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February 16 - towards capital






morning we got to the site of Mark. It is the Central Bank of Nigeria, Ibadan Branch. The building is undergoing a major refurbishment is also connected with the extension. Construction carried out with great verve and huge costs, but after Nigeria is damn rich country (I'm serious), and whoever had the money there. It has to be all the best and most expensive. Say goodbye to Mark and went to Ibadanu. This is some 600 km to the capital. Out of town (it should be recalled that Ibadan is the second largest city in Nigeria 7-8 million people, although dominated by low buildings) takes an hour, so we're actually on the road at 10 am.
Initially, the road is bad, but then ends with a dual carriageway, and our rate of decline. At one point we see a police car going after skipping the roadside hole. Suddenly, the car accelerates, moving away from us for about 10 meters and it pops out of four police officers with guns drawn and very strongly guided in our direction. It looks bad, but I immediately open the window and calling to one of them, Officer, how now? He'll skonfudowany, but definitely more relaxed answer. It begins conversation. They claim that they stopped to greet Oibo (white man). Unfortunately, one of them is no longer such a nice and strong voice cries: "Bring Oibo dollars!", I answer that I do not have dollars, I'm a tourist. But he is bullish: "Oibo bring nigeria money now." Somehow I manage to control the situation, because the rest as she heard that Al will bring them to his sister (which obviously is not, unless Maciek disguise), it started up with joy lap. The rest of the road passes fairly easily, although sometimes the lack of roads. We're going again laterite asphalt. Hours pass, and we're still quite far from Abuja. A lot of wrecks on the road: burned, abandoned, broken. Nobody here does not clean. On the road traffic disputes. The closer to the city for more police patrols. However, we have no problems. Finally we get to Abuja. On the great entrance gate you will see a large inscription: You are welcome!. A little farther on we pass a huge, covered stadium (in Poland, you do not already have). It was built on the All Africa Games, which took place in Nigeria in 2003. Already dusk falls, but still can see the skyline Abuja. Are we we are still in Africa? We go to the Polish embassy, \u200b\u200bbecause we got there a few things to do, and then look for accommodation and the problem is. These guides are the cheapest of bad holes, and in addition with prices starting at 30E! I do have a phone to your old boss and now friend - Mohammed. Until today, we are in touch and meeting with him is an important point of the program. It turns out that it is right now in Abuja. He asks about my plans and insists on meeting (I told him that morning we leave for Yankari National Park). I mention that I have yet to find sleep, so today is unlikely to give advice to meet. He immediately proposes to us overnight. We meet half an hour later. Ala heard much about him, but after our short conversation with him, says one sentence: "The concrete guy"! That is what Mohammed. After leaving backpacks go in search of a special suyi. Only in Abuja, was once a guy who was doing small rolls from the grill. Find a place without much problem and the guy is still there (Mark, stood in the same place, and we remember - still has to 100N). We buy lunch (I showed where Ali lived Jadźka) and go to the bar, where he often chadzaliśmy last time with Mark. They have great grilled fish, but somehow I prefer to roll. Very evening of memories sympathetic. And I have promised a discount on the rolls as I come back again! Tomorrow we head to Yankari.
So now I Jarzabek: Nigeria I know the stories. Many times I've heard all sorts of adventures and stories of Philip's two stays in the country. In my mind an idea was born, which now comes to confront the reality. This is a very interesting experience, because Philip has always idealized his lost paradise, which I of course I took into account, a little 'grounding' of his experience, creating their own image of the country. Well, I'm here and now and compare. Let's go, and Philip says: here is a bridge, which lacked the bay as we drove with his parents in 2003. And I said, and then this bridge. And now everything is clear. And here we bought a beer with Matthew on the way to the park Yankari. I said it that was so hard chilled, that up to drink could not? So I know a lot of detail. This picture of the puzzle that is missing, however, very many elements that created the whole. Well, now complements these missing pieces, and some existing corrects. Abuja is a city where Philip spent the most time and most told me about him. The adventures, sites, people. Of the people I met have this most important - Mark, who introduced Philip in the world and learned many things that make Phil is able to move in here and talk with local people - a skill that very few whites have, or rather: he wants to have. So now the turn of the most important city. We drove four-lane street (in each direction, of course) to the center. Traffic disputes fairly, but incomparable to Lagos. There are no Stars, which means 'Okada', which move around the city is completely forbidden. There are no open ditches sewage, it's clean, no rubbish. Wszyściutko placed, aligned, modern furnishings. In Africa, I was in 14 countries, but I have not seen anything like this. Looks like someone moved and threw a piece of Europe in the middle of Nigeria. Virtually no specific marketplaces have been replaced with modern boxes, streets are clean, are the sidewalks, pedestrian lights ... For us, supposedly normal, but here it's really a sensation. In the 80s of the twentieth century, the then president decided to move the capital from Lagos port juggernaut, in the middle of the country. The town was created from scratch. In 2002, during the first Philip's stay in Nigeria, Abuja had about 300tys. residents and the streets were practically empty. 4 years later the population has tripled, and the streets more and more filled. Today - we do not know where the inhabitants, but the streets are much more full. However, there is still a comparison even with Katowice, Warsaw, not to mention, in terms of traffic. I porównałabym it to Ruda Slaska, where in some places create traffic jams, but some very time-consuming, and for the rest of the city passes smoothly. Roads planned very well (of course, white man), I have not seen anything narrower than 2 bands, and 3-4 is a standard. And we produce new. In general, the city is still a big construction site. Of course, most buildings have long standing, but still there are new additions were office buildings and residential buildings. In any event, Abuja in my imagination looked a bit more after afrykańsku. I need some puzzles, however, change for the better:)

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February 15 - Ibadan and visit with Mark



On Sunday morning we go to Abuja. In Lagos we ask police for directions as we drove on the wrong bridge. These escorts and fetch us on the express road. Surprisingly, the boys do not wish for it, but for the sake of international cooperation in giving them reflective sagowe bears for children to make them easier to see how they shall walk after dark. Unfortunately, very little for Lagos begins to jam. The renovation is one lane, so we lose a lot of time, but here we go. Well sure, let them damn it. Do not traveled too far, and here another jam. Time flies, and that we stand. We are witnessing a quarrel between Nigeryjczykami. The driver of the Audi TT, in order to shorten the route enters the gas station, but I think it's not like someone (a total of a whole bunch of them so she did) and starts scene. At some point, the driver does not stand TeTetki and jumps out of the car. He immediately pulls shirt (perhaps a little rushed at the gym, because the myoma was concrete) and like a mad bull in the corridzie moves to his opponent. But as happens in Nigeria is at once a couple of guys who do abstain. Of course, the clash does not occur, which is a pity, because it would be the only entertainment in this traffic jam. Well, something is moving, so you have to hang on the bumper of the car earlier, otherwise just magically Nigerian busik appears from nowhere and pushed ahead. Fight for your pool position almost like Kubica, no, unfortunately, sometimes dilapidated fewer trips around Poland take care of your body workshops and I have to give up. Of course, with huge buses do not have any chance (you can see that some have tried to battle, because the buses are heavily battered), but I confess that some small bitewek in traffic or win, and this is just my three days in Nigeria, after nearly three year absence. It will be good:)
Our journey to Abuja, it looks less and less realistic. This is some 800km, and the road can be very different. 13:00 It's getting longer and we're still in traffic. We left Lagos at 10 am, and relentlessly count shows that we traveled 100km. We decided we were going to visit our friend Mark, who is a veteran of Nigerian. He lives in Nigeria for almost 30 years - currently in Ibadan, some 150 km from Lagos. I met Mark at a party at the Polish embassy in Abuja in 2002. Since that time, we maintain very close contact and see each other quite regularly. I know that Mark and I can always count him I'm always welcome. I'm calling to him, and communicates that in about 2 hours we will be with him. The handset is very happy voice responds, clearly come by, two boxes Guldera to cool. Cork gradually loosens up. It turns out that it was an accident. Truck of the capsule is overturned beer. Everywhere rot Star beer cans (of course, already empty). The bus in front of us fall out of the window box. On the rails sit happy people, each holds down Old. Well, a good party, too bad that we were so far away, but I'm too old for a total of not so fond of. We stood in the queue until 14:30, but it's no wonder, since each helps to remove the effects of an accident downed a few cans of beer. I would not hurry in this case. From our side it was a great decision to stay in Ibadan, since the Abuja have no chance to get there. Humor me right back to the idea of \u200b\u200bmeeting with Mark, and besides, I stress about the passage of time and the great distance separating us from the capital. We meet with Mark in a restaurant in the center Ibadanu. We are there at 16:30. Mark appears with his fellow Italian. We eat fantastic steaks, drink beer and talk about old times and our adventures on the road. Suddenly he begins to play very loud music, so dopijamy beer and go to Mark. It's a big pokolonialny house, where Mark lives with that Italian Antonio. Long talk and end up extremely enjoyable evening quite late, Marek morning goes to work, and we we go to Abuja.
Oh, and remember the story of the arrested a goat? As it turned out, it was not just ram goat. The employee told Mark that he saw on television an interview with this ram posądzanym a bank robbery, but the ram is not admitted to anything! No luck what to do. Such things are just in. ..... Nigeria.

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Feb. 14 - Event polonijno-Travel




Today we get up around 9, after the conquest of night clubs in Lagos. Phil sends a steward (here the standard is to have a steward in the house that cooks, cleans and feathers) to the store after lunch for breakfast and it instructs us how to prepare an omelet. We eat breakfast. Christopher Robin is coming to us during a break at work and takes us to visit your workplace, or Nigerian mills, the largest such undertaking in the country. We drove a special conveyor belt (in the picture - you stand on this small platform, you need to stick to the handle above, the construction itself seems pretty dangerous, but feeling pretty good) on the next floor and watch the process of grinding grain into flour (only later we learn that the failure rate This elevator is quite large, and have been fatal accidents.) A huge hall with dozens of machines, each process takes on a different floor, on the ground floor to get the final product. After visiting the factory we are going on a little shopping to the supermarket (yes, there's just something with the prices three times higher than ours) because Christopher Robin appears tonight on our part of the event, which invited his Polish friends living and working in Lagos.
event goes well. Turnout is nice, our pictures are of considerable interest. We finish quite late and great moods go to sleep. Morning, we plan to reach Abuja.

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Feb. 13 - Limit benińsko-Nigerian challenge




Phil wakes up in the morning like a newborn (not surprising, because these horses antymalaryku doses, which in itself is an antibiotic + additional antibiotic treatment, probably all bacteria were eradicated for a long time). Efficiently gather and ride to 20km distant to the Nigerian border. This is a border crossing point, which I am afraid from the beginning, because I know the story of how they want money for everything, and the line is always a good opportunity to plucking a tourist, even in the more 'civilized' African countries. The more that we have already referred to above on carnet de passage, which is this document to be issued in Poland (A generous deposit), which confirms the customs authorities in each country that will not sell them in the car. Well, and it is known that in Nigeria, just like we do ... And to all this, a passage which you want to cross the busiest between Benin and Nigeria (probably one of the busiest in Africa), because there was a port in Cotonu are transported to Nigeria, cars older than 10 years, there are officially not allowed to bring in . But nothing is, you only die once.
drove in a high density of people, which means that we got to go. We see the first gate, made of branches course. Stops us, a man in civilian clothes, who seeks to show benińskiego Lasser passez. We show him in what he says that we are not just any kwitka. To which I reply to him that at the entrance to Benin and I asked twice (what is honest truth), are you sure we all customs officers discharged and exposed, we did not have any problems later. So I know that we do not need any other scrap of. But despite this guy wants us to erase nearly 10E for the lack of paper. Ignore it, and I will have to go slowly Philip the barrier. A guy puts a barrier, flying in front of us to some of uniforms, something for him there whispers, returns to the uniformed, which will check our documents and said OK. The guy in civilian clothes, after the departure of the officer wants to cash again. I tell him that nothing will get and set off. On the right we see a building with the words 'Immigration', parked the car and go do paperwork. We come to the window, where the stamps are driven away. I've included a customs official passports, and he said that the punching stamp in the passport I have to pay 1000Naira (5E )!!!! Not only that, already operates the Nigerian currency, it still has the audacity to demand payment of the stamp insert trips. Oops, this already too much. I do not care of their exit stamp! Let not intercede as you do not want to because I did not pay him anything! It starts in me to cook, I want to call his supervisor. But I see that slowly drove the stamps and give me a passport. I draw them firmly in his hand and move on. 2m for the window stands a table where they sit 2 people. The guy stops and asks us to show passports (in civvies). Opens it, checks the stamp and it says that we have to pay 200Naira (1E) for the fact that he looked. Another moment and explode. Now you no longer patyczkuję passports and tear the guy out of the hand and go further, the Nigerian side. Here they have taken over the baton to Phil. It's the end of his country:) I am so far I've had enough. The first immigration officer, another, quite nice. In any case, much better than the benińskiej page. Nigerian show goes on! Madame customs officer sticks to us staying for 90 days (always want the maximum amount for which allows you to our visa, we do not know whether to no avail), he throws something about the tip of cola, but Phillip puts her five and move on. Now deep breath, because we have to settle the issue of the car. We're going from one customs officer to another, and finally get to the destination office, where two uniformed sits and a civilian. Enucleation of the case. Publican asks a carnet de passage. We in the fact that we do not have, because it is not needed anywhere, everywhere, even as we give us Lasser passez. The tax collector is responsible, that is mandatory for tourists carnet, in which case we have a problem. Well, they're sitting, because I already have soft feet. Philip said, if he could leave us in that case Lasser passez, as they did in Ghana, where he mentioned something about the voucher at the border. He said that and, yes, but you have to pay. To the question if it rains answer: 500E .... Replace the two pillars of salt. 500E, he's probably gone crazy! Filip it corresponds to that in previous countries were paying, and, yes, but after 10E and that as we pay 500, we leave here, and here we go car stop. Publican is happy, he says, is give the keys. Philip begins a laugh and the atmosphere relaxes somewhat. The tax collector takes some papers to print ignoring us. Philip begins zagajać friendly conversation, and after a while we all laugh, even the tax collector is getting a belly and says, "you are my brother now! Well, now we have him. Brother can not pluck after all, is not it? So Philip further mined the publican, and all around. In the meantime, scroll through a few people who handing our thick customs official rolls of money, landing right in the depths of the drawer, in exchange for a stamp on their documents. Passed about an hour. Customs Officer at the time it prints a few druczków. At some point, reach for your registration card and begins to write in the form to us! Writes slowly and check all information with the evidence (because, of course, as the Polish documents, it's hard to fathom.) Slowly and carefully affix stamps. Chuch the ink stamps to dry. Our hearts beat faster and faster. What amount will fall? The tax collector: Bring the money. Philip drew from his pouch and handed 10E. This, without batting an eye puts them in a drawer. We Lasser passez !!!!! I guess they heard stones falling from the heart to us. Our tax collector says that we need this one more piece of paper stamps. Calling some of his colleague, who comes to the office. Of course, he must explain the whole story. That the fact that tourists must have a carnet de passage, etc. But we said that pushed the issue passez Lasser, so staged. And he has just nailed a stamp. Dissatisfied, but agreed to kindly to this and tells us to follow him. In his attic puts final stamp and we are free! We have a paper on which everyone will surely ask. And for this we are convinced that even if we had the carnet de passage, it still wants money for the affixing of stamps on it or even to something more interesting came up. Welcome to Nigeria! Land of beauty! Just advertise. They forget, even just to finish this sentence: and of corruption. But - the worst is behind us. In any case, I think so for the first 5m after the Nigerian traveled asphalt. At this point reminds us that we do not have any local money, and some pair of E and other CFA must be replaced. We ask a man on the exchange, points towards the border. So you need to back ... Philip parks where we exchange money and runs. Hogging her locks in the car and watch the road ahead of us. And here in front of 2m, the same guy that asked about the exchange of money, substitutes the passing cars so very professional breath gwoździskami bristling thick. I force money from them. Some pay, some do not. Those who do not pay - get a pair of 'spanking' hand after the mask and go on. At some point I motorek riding with 2 people. Podstawiają board. The driver begins to gesticulate, you can see that they do not want to pay. But he can not hide in your car, unfortunately. Wymuszaszcze trying to snatch his bag pasażerce. It begins przepychanka, whose end can not see, because passing a big truck and I lose them from view for a while, and after his stint on motorku couple have disappeared. Well, nice to start! Philip returned to the said money, but I already have nietęgą face. I tell what I saw, Philip laughs and says - you'll see it here as usual. Thank you for this as usual! Let's move on. Of course the guy wants money from us. Phil throws him a Nigerian greeting, he asks what he has For us the gift of Nigeria (they always ask first: Poland in beautiful contry! Masta dey what you bring for us from Poland?), nailed five and go. For 5m, another lock with nails, another fast talking, nailed five and go. And so some good times. And after the blockades begin wymuszaczy lock (already without nails, but with rifles on shoulder) of the various officers of the police, customs, health drugs, health care and any uniform (real or not) the service of this country. Everyone wants to see something else, of course, everyone wants money. We do not pay anything, they just greets Philip, make you smile and here we go. Without white Nigerian, that border and the road could be a drama and to impress with such stigma that Nigeria would have never been on the list of countries to see. From the border to Lagos is some 70km. In this episode, and most of the first 20km, we were stopped, and this without any exaggeration, some 30-40 times! We lost count at some point. I calmed down after a few checks and have also started to treat it as slowly as usual. But I have to admit that you wymuszacze with boards with nails done for me electrifying, of course, negative impression. In Lagos we
an appointment with our friend Christopher Robin, who lives and works there. We meet at one of the major bus stations. After driving into the city we find the station, but Christopher Robin got stuck in heavy traffic (not a strange thing in this nearly 20-million city) and slowly guided by his instructions to continue. Finally, we are able to meet near his home and happy to go to his apartment. Phew, a fun-filled day. And here until the 14th Where there evening! CrossFit offers us lunch, a little to embrace it and tells us to prepare for the night tour of Lagos, especially its nightlife. It's for us challenge, given that the rhythm of the road we get up early, but the early going to bed. It will not be easy, especially after so many emotions at the border. But what, you live once - everything you need to try!)
Lagos shows us a completely different face. We visit a club in which protecting packed with at least as "Pudzian, armed with machine guns, without asking us, from top to bottom. In total, allow us to enter, but say: "Make sure you spend one million Naira (no light, a total of only 50 thousand. E). The pub is located on Bentley's Lounge. In the midst of splendor dazzles us. Sami black, dressed in designer clothes. The menu item is the number one champagne for a thousand. dollars. Unfortunately, this place is not for us, not only because of the price (oh, do not sell drinks bottle only as a whole need to buy) but i really was something to see. So is playing poor Africa. We visit another
clubs. Some up bursting at the seams, from the older white guys surrounded by black young girls. Well, a folklore! Finally, we land in the local music club. Prices more reasonable, because only 3E for the beer and playing live music. Particularly engaging are the covers of the most famous, the late music Nigerian Fela Kuti. At the end of the guitar takes over the man who claims to have once played with Fela. Announces that he will play a piece of Jimi Hendrix. I am horny right away on "Hey Joe"! Flying first notes, and there is a big banana on my face. Arrangement is fantastic. Everyone begins to swing and throw some money the contractor. At the end acquire the album. Hopefully that will be equally good. We're back in the middle of the night, empty streets of Lagos, releasing only the police checks. Now that's a good Welcome to Nigeria, land of beauty!

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Feb. 12 - A village on stilts and a hospital






Let's go further. We go by heading for the main city-port in this country: Cotonou. But this is not the capital of Togo. The capital is Porto Nuovo, which is also located on the coast just 30km further towards Nigeria. Way bad, so quickly get to a junction where the road deviate in the construction of flood waters to reach the ocean, which formed a very shallow lake, which was a village on stilts. Genesis foundation of the village, is similar to that of the villages with the houses 'dad', or escape from slavery.
We paid for the tickets and the guide took us on a "haven". There are a lot of boats waited called canoes, propelled by oars and sail. We boarded our cruise łajby and started toward the village Ganvie. Of course, a guide at the start indicated that he is not paid, and how we would have liked to give him something. As usual in Africa, it is already doing boring, admission includes a guide, a guide before setting out, it requires money! Well then, here we go, that is, we go further. Village quite interesting, of course, the first stop in the gift shop. In a moment the question is asked, if you want to go to the floating market in the village (we already know something from Thailand). Of course, it is no longer in the standard program, and our guide and the "oars" clearly suggests that it will be an extra charge. Well no, that's too much. Please make sure that we were driving the normal route for which your ticket is valid. At the end of the guide points out that if we want to give him something now, because later will have to share with the women on the shore. After a brief consultation decide: no cash for the loafers, leserów, phonies and pseudo guides. Very politely, I let my speech. Given the very short visit to the village (about 15 minutes on site), the lack of any additional information (these basic wyczytaliśmy in the guide) does not feel that it should be any additional fee. Guide disgusted at our 'thank you' wycedza reply, which can no longer afford our łódkowego. I'm not aggressive. Aggressiveness "1"! We're going as quickly as possible to the office with the tickets. There he will ask about the details of our trip. It turns out that everything was included in the price guide, floating market, etc. We are staying apology, and our lazy guide gets scolding. We go back to the car but not the best mood. Still a lot of Africans have to learn in the field of hospitality ...
Cotonu we drive through coffee, because our goal is Porto Novo. We find a nice hotel just. But staying is not very pleasant, because Philip starts to feel worse and worse. Already a couple of days go belly ache, and now this happens fever, body ache and nausea. We see a rash, which according to the description, it may be, along with other symptoms - a symptom of typhoid fever. Philip, however, feels more 'malarycznie', because similar symptoms had been during previous attacks of malaria. Do not delay go to hospital. As it is now 18, only the emergency room is open. Find a doctor, whom I try to explain the French side (P. Ursula - I forgot how it is abdominal pain!), What works, and fortunately, we say that we want to do a test for malaria. Philip feels less and less. Nurse comes to us from the window to the window, because you have to download the bulb, write 100 requests, pay a fee, etc. We go back to the doctor with druczkami, proof of payment and an ampoule of blood collection. Nurse gets a sterile needle Philip blood, we go back to the clinic. The result will be an hour. We're going to find some internet, which does not appear to be easy, so we return to the hospital with nothing. I must add that this is not the building of the hospital, to which we are accustomed, but the one-storey buildings, partially closed, but also partly open. Outside, about 30 degrees, so in the open part of a similar temperature, and this lack of airing. Philip weak, mosquitoes bite us, and the time has passed and still no result. Madame from reception lab says it is still investigating. Finally, after 1.5 hours is the result - negative. So it is not malaria. We go to the doctor with the result. He says that blood is not malaria parasite has been detected, but may still be present, for the moment still in rudimentary form, so you might want to take a dose antymalaryku, and to prescribe further antibiotic, because it is suspected or typhoid fever, but he is not sure, or some food poisoning. So even went to the pharmacy. Antymalaryki have his own, the doctor confirmed that they are OK, so Phil is taking them right away. We go to the hotel to an early to bed, because sleep is the best medicine.